Location, location, location —it’s not just for real estate.

Put your coop in a low-lying, soggy area and you'll soon have muddy runs, stinky smells, and unhappy hens. Choose a well-drained, slightly elevated spot. If needed, improve drainage with gravel.

And don’t forget the shade! Chickens can overheat quickly in direct sunlight. A solid roof is your best friend—shielding from blazing sun, rain, and snow. (Screened roofs might seem nice, but they’ll give you grief during fall leaf season and every storm.)

Pro tip: Leave at least 4 feet of space around your coop and run for easy cleaning, egg collecting, and tool access.

Building on a sloped or uneven surface is a recipe for frustration. An unlevel coop leads to sticky doors, misaligned panels, and long-term structural issues. Precision-cut components—like those in our Carolina Coop kits—require a level base to come together properly.

Even a small twist in your foundation can throw off your whole build. So take your time. Use a long level, check all directions, and shim if needed. Future you (and your roof panels) will thank you.

We get it—sand and concrete seem easy to clean. But sterile surfaces can prevent chickens from doing what they love most: digging, scratching, and foraging.

Hard flooring = hard pass.
It can even lead to foot injuries like bumblefoot. Instead, go natural. Use a deep layer of untreated wood chips, straw, or organic material. It’s softer, healthier, and perfect for composting down the road.

Sand is for beaches, not chickens. Sand is a sterile environment and doesn’t allow for beneficial microbes and bugs. Plus, no one wants to have a giant litter box.

This one’s big. Chickens are social, but they don’t like being packed in.

Overcrowding leads to stress, feather-picking, and disease. Inside the coop, we like one foot per chicken on the roost bar. In the run, shoot for 10 square feet per chicken (minimum!).

And that brings us to the next point…

You start with four. A few months later… you have 10.

We call it Chicken Math —and it’s real. Maybe you spot a new breed you have to try. Or one of your hens gets broody. Maybe you add a few rescues. Either way, that coop better have room to grow.

Our advice? Build for double the flock size you think you want. Trust us. It’s cheaper than building a whole new setup later.

Raccoons, foxes, hawks, snakes, weasels—they’re all looking for a chicken dinner.

One of the biggest mistakes new keepers make is underestimating predators. Chicken wire? Not enough. It keeps chickens in, but doesn’t keep predators out.

Use 1/2" x 1/2" PVC-coated galvanized hardware cloth on all vents, windows, and runs.

It’s the gold standard for predator-proofing. It keeps out even the craftiest raccoons and slithery snakes—and it holds up against the elements.

Straw might seem classic, but it can be hollow and harbor mites or moisture.

We recommend soft, moldable materials like orchard grass, timothy, or coastal hay.

Chickens love to shape their own cozy nests, and these materials make it easy for them—and safe for your eggs.

Avoid rollaway nest boxes unless you're solving a very specific issue. Often, messy eggs are a symptom of overcrowding or a deeper flock management problem—not a design flaw.

Cleaning the henhouse doesn’t have to be your least favorite chore.

Enter the deep litter system —our favorite low-maintenance, eco-friendly bedding approach. Using our Premium Hemp Bedding, you can go a year or more without a full cleanout. It’s ultra-absorbent, odor-controlling, and breaks down beautifully into garden gold.

Just turn it every few weeks and add more hemp as needed. When it’s finally time to clean out, compost it, or add it directly to your garden beds (after curing).

Bending, crouching, crawling? Nope.

One of the best things you can do for future-you is choose a walk-in run and henhouse.

Our coops are designed so you can stand up straight, whether you're collecting eggs, refilling feeders, or just hanging with your flock.

Trust us—it’s a game changer.