At‑a‑Glance
- Target flow: ≥ 1 gallon per minute (fill a 1-gal jug in ≤ 60 seconds)
- Operating protection: Designed for temps down to -20°F (with proper flow & setup)
- Deicer: Cast aluminum deicer (not a heater)—keeps water ~40°F; self-regulated by an internal thermostat
- Thermostatic switch (“Heat It”): Turns the pump on/off based on temperature; does not power the deicer
- Never use: Power strips/surge protectors, warm enclosed mounting for the thermostatic switch, or restricted plumbing
What’s in the Box
- Circulation pump
- Waterbar with horizontal side nipples
- Rain-barrel fittings and hose bib
- Return hose
- Deicer (cast aluminum, built-in thermostat)
- Thermostatic switch (“Heat It”) for pump control
- Power cords
Tools You’ll Need
- Voltage/Outlet tester or a known-good device (phone charger, lamp, hair dryer)
- Adjustable wrench / channel-locks
- Teflon tape (plumbing)
- Bucket or 1-gallon milk jug (for flow test)
- Paper towels / rag
Safety First
- Plug into a properly grounded, GFCI-protected outdoor outlet.
- Do not use power strips or surge-protected multi-taps.
- Route cords to avoid tripping, strain, pinching, or standing water.
- Unplug components before servicing.
Verify Power & Flow (Must‑Do)
- Confirm Power: Test the outlet with a meter or a known-good device. Fix power before proceeding if it fails.
- Confirm Unrestricted Flow: Open the hose bib fully. Disconnect at the hose bib briefly and observe output: you want a strong, steady stream, not a dribble. If weak, flush the hose bib by unscrewing it, letting gravity flush debris, check the O-ring (intact/clean), then reattach carefully.
- Confirm Circulation Rate: With the loop assembled, time a 1-gallon jug at the return: ≤ 60 seconds = ≥ 1 GPM (good). If slower, check for kinks, clogging, or partially closed valves.
Wire It Right (Pump vs. Deicer)
- Pump → “Heat It” thermostatic switch → wall outlet
- Deicer → wall outlet (direct)
- Do NOT plug the deicer into the “Heat It” (deicer has its own thermostat).
- Do NOT plug the “Heat It” into the deicer (reversed).
- Result: Pump runs only when cold (as “Heat It” commands). Deicer activates only near freezing (its own thermostat).
Placement Tips (Pitch, Switch & Power)
- Waterbar pitch: A slight upward tilt toward the air-escape end helps purge trapped air (pump is not self-priming).
- Thermostatic switch (“Heat It”): Mount outside the coop/run covers and outside storm shields—enclosed areas run warmer and can delay or prevent activation.
- Extension cords: If necessary, make a drip loop and tuck under a rib/support to reduce moisture intrusion and strain.
- Dedicated grounded circuit is recommended.
Fall Test: Deicer & “Heat It”
- Cold-soak test (30–45 minutes in a freezer): Place the deicer and the “Heat It” in the freezer.
- Check the “Heat It”: When cold, its LED lights to indicate it’s delivering power; confirm with a voltage meter if desired.
- Check the deicer: Plug in while cold; frost should melt quickly—this confirms operation.
- Reset tip: A rapid temperature change can “jog” the deicer’s internal switch each fall.
- Reinstall the deicer carefully after testing.
Maintenance & Seasonal Care
- Mineral buildup: Periodically remove and clean the deicer (manganese and other deposits reduce efficiency).
- Flow health: Re-check ≥ 1 GPM any time you change hoses, fittings, or notice slower circulation.
- Water level: Keep the barrel filled high enough to maintain head pressure at the pump.
- Warm weather: It’s fine if the pump doesn’t run—the system protects above freezing without constant pumping.
- Pump duty: Not intended for year-round continuous operation.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Plugging the deicer into the thermostatic switch (or vice versa)
- Mounting the “Heat It” in a warm enclosure (beneath covers/storm shields)
- Using power strips or overloaded circuits
- Ignoring flow restrictions (kinks, debris, partially closed valves)
- Expecting the deicer to heat water to a “warm” feel
- Running the pump constantly year-round
Winter Readiness Checklist
- Outlet tested (GFCI, grounded, no power strips/surge protectors)
- “Heat It” mounted outdoors (ambient air), LED verified in cold
- Deicer direct to outlet; passes freezer/frost-melt test
- Hose bib fully open; O-ring intact; no cross-threading
- Return shows strong flow; 1-gal jug fills in ≤ 60 sec
- Waterbar has a slight pitch to purge air
- Hoses unkinked; fittings tight; no leaks
- Barrel water level high enough for pump head pressure
- Deicer cleaned of mineral buildup
Rain Barrel + Water Bar Install Guide
1) Set the Barrel + Prep the Fittings
- Place your rain barrel on a level, solid surface near the coop and your power source.
- Install the brass fitting + hose bib using Teflon tape on all threaded connections.
- Fill the barrel to operating level (about 50 gallons is typical) so the pump has the pressure it needs.
2) Mount the Waterbar
- Install the water bar in the run/coop where you want your birds to drink.
- Give it a slight pitch (higher on the far end away from the pump). This helps trapped air escape—the pump is not self-priming.
- Make sure the nipples are level/horizontal and easy for your flock to reach.
3) Route the Hoses
Run your lines in this order:
Barrel outlet → Pump inlet → Pump outlet → Water bar → Return line back to barrel
- Keep hoses supported and avoid kinks, sags, or sharp bends.
- Start all fittings finger-tight, then snug gently. Don’t force threads (cross-threading is a pain to fix).
4) Gravity-Flow Check (Before Any Power)
- Open the hose bib all the way.
- Briefly disconnect at the hose bib and look for a strong, steady stream (not a dribble).
- If flow is weak: flush the hose bib, check the O-ring, then reattach and test again.
5) Drop in the De-Icer (Correctly)
- Place the cast-aluminum deicer in the barrel so it sits on its “feet”, off the bottom.
- Route the cord neatly and protect it from pinches.
- If you get snow/ice: secure or elevate the outside cord so the plug stays up and out of the slush.
6) Electrical — Connect It Correctly (Very Important)
Pump path: Pump → “Heat It” thermostatic switch → GFCI outlet
Deicer path: Deicer → GFCI outlet (direct)
✅ Do NOT plug the deicer into the Heat-It.
✅ Do NOT plug the Heat-It into the deicer.
The Heat-It controls the pump only. The deicer has its own internal thermostat.
7) First Power-Up & Air Purge
- Confirm the outlet works (tester or a known-good device).
- Plug in the deicer (it won’t heat until near freezing—totally normal).
- Plug the Heat-It into the GFCI, then plug the pump into the Heat-It.
- If the pump hums but flow isn’t moving: lift the far end of the water bar slightly to vent air. Once primed, it’ll smooth out.
8) Set Your Target Flow (Freeze Protection)
- Remove the return/discharge hose and run it into a 1-gallon jug.
- Time it: you want 1 gallon in 60 seconds or less (that’s 1 GPM+).
- Slower? Recheck for kinks, partial shutoffs, tight bends, or debris, then retest.
9) Cable & Cord Management
- Make drip loops before plugs.
- Keep connections off the ground and away from splash zones.
- Add gentle strain relief (clips/zip ties) so cords aren’t tugging at the plugs.
10) Thermostat Placement (Prevents “No-Start” in Cold)
- Mount the “Heat It” outdoors in true ambient air.
- Do not place it inside run covers or storm shields—these can be warmer and delay activation.
11) Quick Functional Test (Optional but Recommended)
- Put the “Heat It” and (if you like) the deicer in a freezer for 30–45 minutes.
- When cold, the “Heat It” LED should illuminate (it’s “calling” for pump power).
- A cold deicer will shed frost quickly when plugged in—confirms operation.
Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Ice forming in lines/barrel | Restricted flow (<1 GPM); closed/partially closed hose bib; kinked hose; clogged nipple or fitting | Fully open hose bib; flush debris; straighten/replace hose; clean/replace fittings; re-test flow with 1-gal jug |
| Pump runs but no circulation | Airlock (pump not self-priming); waterbar flat; suction leak | Add slight pitch to bar; re-seat fittings; ensure airtight suction; crack a high point to vent air |
| Pump never turns on (cold) | “Heat It” installed in warm enclosure; bad outlet; failed switch | Move “Heat It” outdoors; verify outlet power; freezer-test switch; replace if failed |
| Deicer never warms | Plugged into “Heat It”; failed outlet; failed deicer | Deicer must go direct to outlet; test outlet; cold-soak test; replace if failed |
| Water not ‘warm’ to touch | Deicer is a deicer, not a heater | Normal—deicer maintains ~40°F to prevent freezing, not to warm water |
| Tripped power strip / system off | Using power strip/surge protector | Remove power strip; plug into dedicated GFCI outlet |
| Pump noisy | Air in pump; low water level; debris | Raise water level; purge air (pitch/vent); clean intake |
| Leaks at hose bib | Cross-thread, bad O-ring, lack of tape | Re-seat carefully; inspect/replace O-ring; apply Teflon tape |
