Start by shutting off the water supply. If you use a heated or circulating setup, unplug the pump and any winter components before working on the system.

Always check your power source before plugging equipment back in. We recommend using a tested, grounded GFCI outlet and avoiding power strips or surge protectors for the heated setup.

Open the hose bib and check for strong gravity flow before powering anything. If the water only dribbles out, disconnect the line and flush the hose bib.

Also inspect the O-ring. A damaged, missing, or poorly seated O-ring can cause leaks and weak flow. If you see wear or cracking, replace it before reconnecting the system.

We recommend checking the O-ring, flushing the hose bib, and testing again when flow is weak.

Next, check your rain barrel or water container. Remove leaves, dirt, bedding, algae, or any debris that may have collected inside. 

If you are setting the system back up, place the barrel on a level, sturdy surface near the coop and power source. Use Teflon tape on threaded fittings and filling the barrel to operating level, with about 50 gallons listed as typical for proper pump pressure.

Run clean water through the hoses to push out debris, sediment, or buildup. While flushing, look for kinks, sags, cracks, or loose fittings.

Hoses should stay supported and free of sharp bends. Kinked or sagging hoses can slow the flow and make the system harder to reset properly.

Now move to the water bar. Gently clean the outside and flush the inside with clean water. If needed, remove buildup using non-abrasive cleaning methods.

The goal is to clear debris without damaging the water bar or nipples. Avoid harsh chemicals, especially on parts your flock will drink from.

Check each horizontal poultry nipple to make sure it moves freely. Tap or trigger each one and confirm water comes out properly.

If a nipple sticks, leaks, or does not release water, clean it carefully or replace it. The Carolina Coops system uses horizontal side-mounted poultry nipples designed to keep water contained until your chickens activate them.

When reinstalling the water bar, make sure the nipples stay level and easy for your flock to reach.

The water bar itself should have a slight pitch, with the far end higher than the pump side. This helps trapped air escape. This matters as the pump is not self-priming.

For a circulating setup, route the lines in this order:

Barrel outlet → Pump inlet → Pump outlet → Water bar → Return line back to barrel

Start fittings finger-tight, then gently snug them. Do not force the threads. Cross-threading can cause leaks and make the reset harder than it needs to be.

Before plugging in the pump, open the hose bib fully and check for a strong, steady stream.

If flow is weak, pause and fix the issue before moving on. Check the barrel water level, hose bib, O-ring, fittings, and hose route.

A strong gravity-flow check helps confirm the system has enough water moving through it before the pump enters the equation.

For heated winter setups, plug the pump into the Heat-It thermostatic switch, then plug the Heat-It into a GFCI outlet.

The de-icer should plug directly into a separate GFCI outlet. Do not plug the de-icer into the Heat-It, and do not plug the Heat-It into the de-icer. The Heat-It controls the pump only, while the de-icer has its own internal thermostat.

Once the system runs, check the return line. You should see strong water flow returning to the barrel.

A 1-gallon jug should fill in 60 seconds or less when return flow is strong.

After the clean out, watch your flock. Make sure your chickens can comfortably reach the nipples and understand where the water is.

If you have new chickens or young birds, guide them to the water bar and trigger a nipple so they see the water release.